HOW WE DO FISH
I catch fish, I cook
fish, I eat fish, I sell fish, I sing about fish, I
poeticize about fish, and now I write about fish.
As I said, the fish available off the coast these days include broadbill swordfish, albacore, redfish, bluefin tuna, yellowfin tuna, mahi mahi, lobster, halibut and, on
occasion, Chinook salmon.
step to great fish is preservation (how it is
cared for after being caught). The fish
must first be eviscerated (gutted) and bled.
This keeps the wonderful taste intact. Second
the fish must be kept cold, packed in ice or
Caught and handled this way, the fish will please the
most discriminating palate. Unbelievable as it may
sound, however, the final product can be further
enhanced. In fact, fish does not have to be consumed on
the day it is caught, or as soon as possible. Aging can
"Aging" simply involves submerging the fish in crushed
ice for three or four days. Provide adequate drainage
and add ice daily as needed. The chemical action refines
the fish, just as aging meat, cheese and wine enhance
those products. The flavor is heightened, the texture
becomes more pleasing, cutting and filleting is easier,
and cooking is simplified. However, unless properly
processed as soon as the fish hits the deck, aging will